Working in Sydney’s CBD, there are countless ways I could spend my lunch hour. I could attend a gym class, run to the Opera House and back, read a book in Hyde Park… Or I could be a total lush, hop in a taxi with my work buddy, and meet our former colleague for a quick lunch near her new workplace, at 4Fourteen in Surry Hills.
So that’s exactly what I did one Thursday in late September.
4Fourteen is co-owned and run by Chefs Colin Fassnidge and Carla Jones, of Four in Hand in Paddington, and just four months after opening were awarded 1 hat in the Good Food Guide.
Lured in by a tweeted photo of their rolls the day before, we decided to order one of each roll, along with a starter and a side of colcannon. A very random, but time-friendly, selection of dishes.
Chicken Wing, Parfait, Tortilla and Apple Chutney, $7.50 each
Perched atop a crisp tortilla is a rich, creamy parfait, sweet apple chutney, and a golden, juicy de-boned chicken wing. It is a delicious combination of crunchy, smooth, salty, and sweet. I could have eaten all three myself.
Confit Pork Belly Roll, Reuben Roll, Crab & Spiced Avocado Puree Roll
In the interest of tasting each roll, I managed to divvy up the rolls to share. The rolls, brimming with their fillings, were bigger than we expected – bigger than a slider, but smaller than a regular burger bun.
The crab roll contained a spicy and creamy mix of crab and avocado, the reuben featured a tender piece of corned beef, and the confit pork belly, my favourite, was as heavenly as you’d imagine, with its rich piece of pork belly and fresh, crispy lettuce.
I remember loving the colcannon at Four in Hand Paddington, and this dish lived up to that memory. Colcannon is a traditional Irish dish of mashed potatoes with kale or cabbage. Dressed with spring onions, flat-leaf parsley, and olive oil, this is comfort in a bowl, and more interesting that your standard mashed potatoes.
Fried Bread, Red Pepper Jam and Anchovies, $9 (given to us complimentary)
Despite a few attempts to develop an appreciation for anchovies, to me they just destroy a pizza. They’re fishy, furry, browny-grey, and I want nothing to do with them. But I’d never met a white anchovy before.
Chef Colin sent out this dish complimentary, so I put aside my usual anchovy-hate. The crunchy fried bread was topped with sweet red pepper jam, fillets of anchovies, fresh parsley, and lemon zest, which complemented the dish perfectly.
My opinion on anchovies changed that day. Traditional grey anchovies are still a no-go, but white anchovies are mild-tasting, soft, and honestly, quite delicious!
Film crew in the kitchen
How do you usually spend your lunch break? And how do you feel about anchovies?
P.S. Earlier this month I was one of SBS Food’s Featured Foodies! You can read my food-filled interview on their website.
414 Bourke St, Surry Hills NSW 2010
Entrance via 72a Fitzroy St
Phone: 02 9331 5399
Tues – Sat: lunch from 12pm, dinner from 6pm
Sun: lunch 12pm – 6pm